Snow Surfing at Pyhä-Luosto National Park
I traveled to Pyhä-Luosto over the weekend. Again. There’s something magnetic about this small national park and mountain village in the heart of East Lapland. The village spirit is evident in the ski resort's restaurant, where familiar faces populate almost every other table like friends at a coffee gathering, always filled with people so that the cups run out. The Pyhä area is delightfully small. The ski resort is the perfect size for someone who’s not a fan of large ski resorts. It focuses mainly on the mountain itself rather than the extravagant facilities, restaurants, and shops built around it. The village center consists of a few buildings nestled in the shadow of the mountain, the largest of which is the nature center, which is allowed slightly grander premises than the others. Pyhä suits me well.
The village of Pyhäjärvi in Pelkosenniemi, viewed from Soutajatunturi. In the background rise the fells of Luosto and the landscapes of Pyhä-Luosto National Park.
The morning at Pyhä dawned clear and beautiful, as if covered in a layer of sugar. The house of my friends, where I slept warmly in two sleeping bags on the yet-to-be-renovated attic, is located by the shores of Lake Pyhäjärvi, a bit further from the ski resort itself. Across the lake rise Pyhätunturi and Soutajatunturi, their outlines barely visible through the morning's frosty mist.
The day's agenda was to climb Soutajatunturi and try snow surfing. For me, it would be the first time.
I’ve never considered myself an athlete, let alone an extreme sports enthusiast. By nature, I’m cautious and prefer slow, peaceful activities. However, I don’t know what has happened to all that during this winter. Suddenly, I find myself freeriding in powder snow on the fells, snow surfing on open slopes, and snowboarding behind a snowmobile. On top of it all, I enjoy every bit of it wholeheartedly. I relish the speed I used to fear, I enjoy the cold wind, and I embrace the joy of living. Lapland works wonders on a person.
We built a train behind the snowmobile to transport five people, three dogs, and our snow surfing gear to the fell. The train consisted of a sled for the dogs, one kick sled, and one toboggan, connected by ropes between them. In that ride, the last remnants of me as a hater of extreme sports were stripped away. Snow swirled in our faces, the bigger dogs ran full speed across the sun-kissed snow, and my hat and scarf collected a layer of powder snow. The moment tasted like life.
Photo: Jari Kivelä
Photo: Jari Kivelä
We left the train on the lake's ice and climbed the fell using only our muscles. The deep, powdery snow was light and airy. The bigger ones led the way, while the smaller ones (read: the dogs) got to tread down a ready-made path. The sun welcomed the outdoor enthusiasts, and the snow sparkled like thousands of tiny diamonds.
The skier, who had fallen behind to catch their breath, admired the pristine national park scenery unfolding behind the lake, basking in shades of blue and pale yellow. Well-insulated boots sank into the snow but were light enough to lift step by step.
Photo: Jari Kivelä
The most adventurous had chosen a gentle slope with great views as their run. The atmosphere was light, filled with laughter as each person took their snow baths when their balance slipped off the board. The speed wasn't too thrilling in the deep snow. The best ride was achieved by those who could steer their board back onto the path drawn in the snow by their predecessors, gaining a bit more speed than what the sinking snow offered.
After a few practice runs, the descents could finally be called snow surfing. The earlier attempts were more or less snow baths and finding balance. The joy of success and learning something new burst forth with the flair of a winner.
Photo: Jari Kivelä
The day flew by quickly. The snow was marked with dark blue swirls left by our descents. My cheeks were flushed from climbing the slope and the cold's touch. The dogs, no longer able to chase after each skier barking, coiled themselves into snowballs in sunny spots, keeping half an eye on their pack. The backpack grew lighter with the snacks shared evenly among everyone, even those I just met on the slope. Sharing trail snacks is part of the village spirit at Pyhä. What better way to make new friends than by sharing homemade chocolate cookies with tired skiers?
The sun continues to nurture the weary after the northern darkness. It has been shining almost daily for weeks now. It feels like a lovely fresh breath, the first sign of spring and a bringer of new energy. Even though we are still deep in the winter months, these sun-kissed days feel different from the ones before.
Wishing you sunshine and powder snow in your spring days!
♥: Sanna
The first photo of the post: Jari Kivelä
If you want to try snow surfing in the Pyhä-Luosto area, my friends and their company Outdoor Artisans organize guided tours open to skiers of all levels. I can only recommend it! <3